Turquoise waters, wildflower-lined paths and open skies. The walk from St Ives to Lelant presented all of these, while allowing me to zoom out and get some perspective. Running alongside the St Ives Bay Line railway track, this part of the South West Coast Path winds its way around Carbis Bay and Porthkidney Sands, offering spectacular views and uplifting wind-in-hair … Read More
Of owls, kites, and pelicans: Birding in Lalbagh, Bangalore
Making the idea of “escape” accessible on a morning walk in Lal Bagh Botanical Garden, Bangalore. I woke up one December morning in Bangalore with a huge grin on my face. What a wonderful day it was to be alive. I was finally going to see a Spotted Owlet! It isn’t often that I wake up with the mission of … Read More
Khushkhati: The Urdu and Arabic calligraphers of Hyderabad
A version of this article was published in Mint. If there’s one thing that was common to all the rulers of the princely state of Hyderabad, it’s that they were all patrons of beauty in all forms—architecture, literature, furniture, jewellery, clothes. Glimpses of their legacy is seen in the shopping areas of Old City, which is full of bazaars dedicated … Read More
Window seat view: Taking a train through the Scottish Highlands
Recounting the experience of travelling by train through the Scottish Highlands. An artist’s dream! Five and a half hours on a train through rugged mountains, thick pine forest and uninhabited moors. The West Highland Railway Line seemed to promise a much-needed mental and physical detour. So tempting was this train ride from Glasgow to Mallaig, that I booked a return … Read More
Living in Cherry Hinton: Cambridge’s pocket of peace
A year of living in the lovely neighbourhood of Cherry Hinton, Cambridge: finding calm in the chaos. I was standing by the railway crossing on the High Street, admiring the row of cherry trees that lined the street. In full bloom, they made for a postcard-worthy picture: pink and white flowers against a clear blue sky. Walking on the other … Read More
St Mary’s Islands, Karnataka: India’s piece of Madagascar
St Mary’s Islands in Karnataka is home to massive basaltic rocks that formed millions of years ago, when Madagascar split from India. It’s a blazing hot February afternoon. The summer sky is a clear, gemstone blue, and the sun is white, blinding. A gentle sea-breeze soothes my heat-flushed cheeks. I am at the coastal town of Malpe in Karnataka, about … Read More
A walk to Eel Tarn, Eskdale, Lake District
Eel Tarn, a glacial lake on top of a hill in Lake District’s Eskdale, is as beautiful as they say it is. The village of Boot in Eskdale is a hub for hikers and mountain-walkers, providing a gateway to some of Lake District’s most spectacular fells. But an injured foot meant that I could not take on a long hike. … Read More
Blea Tarn, Little Langdale: A Lake District gem
Blea Tarn in Little Langdale is probably one of the most spectacular lakes I’ve ever seen. It’s a place that’s hard to describe without using one too many adjectives. The tarn is not the easiest to get to: though it was only an hour away from Ambleside, where my partner and I were staying, the drive was fairly tricky, uphill … Read More
Piddington Circular Walk, Oxfordshire
The Piddington circular walk is a varied but easy walk in rural Oxfordshire. The 6-mile route takes you through vast grazing lands, dotted with placid sheep and somewhat suspicious cows. The path follows the slope up Muswell Hill, one of the highest points in the Cherwell District, which overlooks the gentle, rolling slopes of the valley. My partner and I … Read More
Bourneend to Little Marlow Walk: A day out in the Chilterns
The Bourne End to Little Marlow walk takes you through the peaceful Spade Oak reserve and stunning Thames valley views. It’s a quintessential Chilterns walk, one that I’ve gone back to over the years. I was introduced to the concept of circular walks a few years ago when I moved to England. One of the walks that I’ve grown particularly … Read More
A walk in the neighbourhood: Cherry Hinton, Cambridge
One of the things I love most about muggy, overcast days is that all the colours of the earth below seem richer in contrast to the grey skies. The grass looks greener, the daffodils brighter. As I lock the door of my house to step out for a walk, I notice that the pillbugs that are usually near the rose … Read More
How birding helped me cope with the COVID-19 lockdown
A short essay on how birding helped me stay sane during the lockdown in the UK and took me through the seasons of almost an entire year 🙂 It was a lovely March afternoon when I found myself standing under a gigantic horse chestnut tree in the middle of the Cherry Hinton Hall park, with tears running down my cheeks. … Read More
NatGeo Traveller India: A Night in a Lighthouse, UK
An article for National Geographic Traveller India about a stay in a 190-year-old lighthouse in Wales, UK. Scroll down to see the full text. The tower of the West Usk Lighthouse has signalled ships to safety for about a century and served as a lookout post during the Second World War. Now run as a B&B by a couple (and … Read More
Gundmi: Of paddy fields and barefoot simplicity
My right leg was starting to hurt as I balanced all my weight on it mid-step, trying to not make a sound. We were standing on the bund of a paddy field, and had just spotted a kingfisher enjoy the afternoon sun. It bobbed up and down, as the branch it sat on swayed gently in the breeze. Below it, … Read More
An Illustrated Keswick Walk: Walla Crag to Ashness Bridge
An illustrated account of the much-talked-about Keswick walk: the route from Walla Crag to Ashness Bridge (starting at Great Wood). For a detailed route, check out the National Trust website. One of the hardest decisions to make as a first-timer in the Lake District is to decide which fell you’re going to take on. After much debating, I announced to … Read More
Magical Monsoons of India: Reminiscing the Rains
A nostalgia-soaked essay on the magical monsoons of India. There’s nothing that says home like thunderous rain and hot roadside bhutta (roasted corn). It’s the season that brings a whole upheaval of emotions. Great big drops fall from the saturated sky, at that breaking point beyond which the earth can’t hold back anymore. These are tears of happiness, of sadness, … Read More
Nostalgia trip: A childhood made of dreams
I don’t know where my parents procured the Magic Toothbrush from, but it remains, to this day, the single most fascinating thing I have ever seen in my life. My brother and I woke up one day to find that we had just willed the ‘changing colour’ toothbrush to jump straight out of the TV ad into our hands. We … Read More
How Planet Earth II impacted my life
Cover image © BBC. See the full gallery here. On November 6th, 2016, thousands of hearts across the UK skipped a beat, as a baby iguana was chased by an army of snakes on the BBC. And I’m sure, a huge sigh of relief must’ve echoed across the country, as it miraculously escaped from its menacing predators. Sitting here, cocooned … Read More
Cherrapunjee | A trek to the double-decker living root bridge
The living root bridges of Meghalaya are one of the only such structures in the world. Here’s an illustrated account of the exhilarating trek to the double-decker bridge at Nongriat, Cherrapunjee, Meghalaya. “Ow!” I cry, as a steel nail pricks my palm. Hurriedly withdrawing my hand from the railing, I put another foot forward on the suspension bridge, which sways … Read More
Bird-watching, a first-time experience
This story, titled “Bird-watching: A first-time experience”, first appeared on 2nd February 2016 in The Pollachi Papyrus. Read the full story here. Ramya birding from a bullock-cart | Credits: Lingesh Kalingarayar My interaction with winged creatures has been almost entirely limited to crows, peacocks and pigeons. While crows constantly stole my food during the hostel years, a peacock once used … Read More
13 must-have Indian food experiences
This piece was originally done for the travel company GoMowgli, highlighting Indian food experiences a first-time visitor must have. From the 36-course Kashmiri wazwan to the simple biryani of Tamil Nadu, India offers to your palate a mind-boggling variety of tastes and flavours. Much like its people and culture, Indian food is highly diverse, with each region having a distinct … Read More
On fear, fist pumps and freedom
“Stretch your legs out in front of you,” the instructor said, as I hung suspended by a pulley, ready for my first zip lining experience. The rope I clung to for dear life connected one mountain to another across the gorgeous green valley of Cherrapunjee. I had decided to do this after agreeing to the the driver’s mysterious question,” Madam, … Read More
Parambikulam Tiger Reserve: A night on Veetikunnu island
Staying at Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, one of my favourite places in the world. A version of this story, titled “Fiercely protected, fearlessly wild”, was first published by The Pollachi Papyrus on 21 October 2015. Read it here. Spread over 640 km2, and surrounded by forests on all sides, the Parambikulam Tiger Reserve is home to a large number of endangered … Read More
Romanticising train travel in India
This story was first published in The Better India, on September 8, 2015, titled: This is why I cannot stop travelling by Indian trains. Read it here. The sun was pink and gold as it rose over the plains, getting bigger and bigger as the train sped through the fields. I was standing at the door of Trivandrum Mail, with … Read More
Manjapra, a little-known village in God’s own country
This story was first published by Tripoto on June 19, 2015. Read it here. When Dee invited me over to stay at her farmhouse in Manjapra, Kerala, for a few days, I jumped at the idea. I’ve always been biased towards this South Indian state, having visited a few times earlier, and was enchanted by the idea of staying in a … Read More
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